The Tudor Revolution

I am still working on some of the finer details to my Venetian outfit based on The Concert by Giovanni Antonio Fasolo. One major detail I have been holding off on is finishing the goldwork embroidery on the partlet aka  gorgiera. Now that my copy of The Royal School of Needlework's Goldwork Stitches is here I will be reading it furiously and trying to sketch out the subtle goldwork designs in the painting. Wish me luck! and from what I have read of the book so far it is big on technique, but very light on historical context. A full review will follow later.  Giovanni Antonio Fasolo, c1565: " The Concert " (fresco detail) Vicenza, Villa Campiglia Negri de' Salvi

Back in September I volunteered for a small but important project. Countess Illora, then Queen of Atenveldt, was stepping down in German high-renaissance clothing. Sarah Grace's end product was beautiful, but my embroidery is only visible to a few members who helped to dress the Queen. Sarah Grace pre-smocked the embroidery for her Majesty's undergarment cuffs and neckline. I then used a stem stitch in white silk thread to outline the design I had chosen from some period patterns. The cuffs are a simplified version of one of Holbien's paintings in Basil, and the neckline is from an Italian sampler. Flower and vines for an inspiring woman. Cuffs worked in white for a subtle beauty.  Neckline in a floral pattern. 

So it has been a very busy week around here, and with only 2 weeks left the tempo can not slow down if I am to finish everything before I depart for the event. Since my last update I have finished the last of the 40 thread covered buttons for my husband's Hungarian coat. I also patterned to body and sleeves of the coat. There are a few more adjustments to make after the last fitting but by the end of the day i should have the body assembled. I am even using my lucet to make cording when i am on the treadmil. I continue to practice wearing my new corset. The fabric has stretched slightly but everything seems to fit together well. I am now on the 4th row of embroidery on the front of my camicia. I need a total of 5 rows down the front and back panels, 4 down each side panel, the sleeves and my neckline. In order to make my portrait complete I will need to focus on the front and neckline for now, and I can address the rest of the blackwork after the event. 40 completed thread ...

While I am doing blackwork for 8 hours at a time, my Venetian camicia is not ready to be posted about yet. Instead I want to share some important information for anyone trying to make a French gown with accessories from The Tudor Tailor . I love this book but there were a few problems with the publication. The woman's foresleeves do in fact have a pattern included with the gown and kirtle, but the instructions were omitted at the time of publication. The wonderful women at The Tudor Tailor have since realized their mistake and will provide anyone with a pdf version of the instructions on their website. Detail of  Elizabeth I from The Family of Henry VII, Hampton Court Palace.  These sleeves are similar in size and style to the instructions given on The Tudor Tailor website.   I have observed that is is just one kind of foresleeve. I am working on a extensive handout on these accessories because of all of the variations available....

I have been told so many times that corsets are uncomfortable and awful to wear. My response to this is simply- you must not be doing it right. Here is a quick checklist for all of you inclined to try wearing corsets. Always wear something under your corset!  Historical corsets (as far as my research has shown me) were NEVER worn next to the skin. There are many reasons for this but the two best ones are that its really uncomfortable for long periods of time and the corset would need to be washed more often. Hand wash your corsets! I know we put lots of tension on a well built corset some times, but modern washing machines will degrade the fabric faster. Depending on the style of boning you have it may degrade over time as well. The biggest problem with doing this is that usually the ends of the boning channels will wear down and the stays/busks/boning may poke through while you are wearing it. Lay your corset flat to dry on a towel. Electric driers may shrink...

Inspired by an Italian Masquerade event that I will be attending at the end of September, my projects are taking a brief vacation to the shining city on the lagoon, Venice. Starting in at the beginning of August I had 8 weeks to build a Venetian Ensemble from the skin out, and a Hungarian Ensemble for my husband.  So far here is my progress: Week 1: Research and order supplies I could not find locally. Start 40 thread covered buttons for husband's coat. Week 2: While waiting for supplies research how gowns were made. Draft corset pattern, discuss construction details with those who have made them before. Prep supplies as they arrive. Build and embroider husband's 16th century shirt. Look to my post  on a Man's Tudor Shirt. Week 3: Construct Corset. Look to my post on  Effigy Corsets with Reeds . Begin drafting camicia pattern based on the instructions at  The Realm of Venus Camicia Page Week 4-5: Mock up/patterning Hungarian coat. Embroidery...

Not too long ago I had a reflective moment on my sewing skills. My husband needed a new undershirt for his Tudor clothing i am making him so I busted out The Tudor Tailor , made some alterations based on what i wanted him to have, and got to work. When we were first dating I made him a shirt not unlike this one but the quality was vastly different. It was my best work until that point. I purchased some cream broadcloth from Joann's Fabrics and used a Butterick costume pattern. Commercial patterns (McCall's. Simplicity, Butterick, etc) are a great tool to learn from, but it is much more satisfying (and will have a more period cut) when you can draft it out yourself. The poor man was always fighting with those satin ribbon ties the pattern suggested at the cuffs. Satin ribbon just does not stay tied well. This time around I purchased the correct fabric for the period and started from there.The completed shirt was made from white lightweight linen i purchased at...