The Tudor Revolution

A few words on pins. Some of you may have heard the phrase "having your pin money" at some point. The meaning of this phrase is to have a little extra money left over to do something special or treat yourself. Modern women might think of this in terms of having extra funds for cosmetics or shoes. The origins of this phrase are in fact in the Tudor period, or possibly earlier. At this point in history you had to have "pin money" to dress well. Pins were used to hold up placards on gowns, sleeves, veils, and arrange jewelry. At later dates they were also used to arrange skirts and ruffs. Extant Brass Pins from the Victoria and Albert Museum Today's reenactors have been lacking in quality brass pins for their dressing needs for some time. Often we resorting to steel straight pins for sewing. The problem with these is that they are not sturdy enough to stay in the fabric without bending. For anyone willing to pay $2 a pin plush shipping there is a good solutio...

Most of you out there have probably seen and used the Tudor Tailor's French hood patterns. I do love the look of my hoods I have created using these patterns, but they do not travel well. When transporting them they must either be worn or packed carefully into a hat box. Making French hoods out of plastic canvas gives them increased durability, but also adds significantly to the weight. If you have had problems transporting your hoods you may be in luck. Have you tried the research and pattern by Sarah Lorraine. Sarah's patterns involve layering pieces to archive a final look which is spot on for several of the portraits and profiles we see of period women in their headdresses. It also sits lower to the head in keeping with research being done on French hoods between 1510 and 1540. Take a look. Try it out. Share your thoughts. When my versions are done there will be an update. Happy August! http://www.modehistorique.com/research/ReconstructingTheFrenchHood_06-2009.pdf

So I have been quiet for a bit, but I return with new experience and insight. Ottoman Turkey was a major trading partner and military opponent to Poland, Hungary, Italy, and France during the sixteenth century. Without their presence the political climate of the time could have been very different. So get ready to fall down the rabbit hole into some research on the clothing of Ottoman Turkish women. Mistress Sabiha,OP, come to our tiny town to teach a class on 16th century Turkish clothing. Her wealth of information made my head spin as she walked us through patterning the layers, selecting fabrics, and general information on Turkish women. After this class I sought to make an outfit so I could better understand the construction and assist some of our local group make their own. Women of the Palace, 16th century For those of you who are new to Turkish clothing let me talk you through the layers we discussed. 1. Golmek- This is your underwear/ against the skin layer. Upper cl...

I am still working on some of the finer details to my Venetian outfit based on The Concert by Giovanni Antonio Fasolo. One major detail I have been holding off on is finishing the goldwork embroidery on the partlet aka  gorgiera. Now that my copy of The Royal School of Needlework's Goldwork Stitches is here I will be reading it furiously and trying to sketch out the subtle goldwork designs in the painting. Wish me luck! and from what I have read of the book so far it is big on technique, but very light on historical context. A full review will follow later.  Giovanni Antonio Fasolo, c1565: " The Concert " (fresco detail) Vicenza, Villa Campiglia Negri de' Salvi

Back in September I volunteered for a small but important project. Countess Illora, then Queen of Atenveldt, was stepping down in German high-renaissance clothing. Sarah Grace's end product was beautiful, but my embroidery is only visible to a few members who helped to dress the Queen. Sarah Grace pre-smocked the embroidery for her Majesty's undergarment cuffs and neckline. I then used a stem stitch in white silk thread to outline the design I had chosen from some period patterns. The cuffs are a simplified version of one of Holbien's paintings in Basil, and the neckline is from an Italian sampler. Flower and vines for an inspiring woman. Cuffs worked in white for a subtle beauty.  Neckline in a floral pattern. 

So it has been a very busy week around here, and with only 2 weeks left the tempo can not slow down if I am to finish everything before I depart for the event. Since my last update I have finished the last of the 40 thread covered buttons for my husband's Hungarian coat. I also patterned to body and sleeves of the coat. There are a few more adjustments to make after the last fitting but by the end of the day i should have the body assembled. I am even using my lucet to make cording when i am on the treadmil. I continue to practice wearing my new corset. The fabric has stretched slightly but everything seems to fit together well. I am now on the 4th row of embroidery on the front of my camicia. I need a total of 5 rows down the front and back panels, 4 down each side panel, the sleeves and my neckline. In order to make my portrait complete I will need to focus on the front and neckline for now, and I can address the rest of the blackwork after the event. 40 completed thread ...

While I am doing blackwork for 8 hours at a time, my Venetian camicia is not ready to be posted about yet. Instead I want to share some important information for anyone trying to make a French gown with accessories from The Tudor Tailor . I love this book but there were a few problems with the publication. The woman's foresleeves do in fact have a pattern included with the gown and kirtle, but the instructions were omitted at the time of publication. The wonderful women at The Tudor Tailor have since realized their mistake and will provide anyone with a pdf version of the instructions on their website. Detail of  Elizabeth I from The Family of Henry VII, Hampton Court Palace.  These sleeves are similar in size and style to the instructions given on The Tudor Tailor website.   I have observed that is is just one kind of foresleeve. I am working on a extensive handout on these accessories because of all of the variations available....