Blackwork Embroidery
The Honorable Lady Isabelle de Calais
V&A Museum T.112-1972
Ca. 1540 England, Silk embroidery on linen shirt
About the Embroidery...
For the purpose of this class we are going to focus on counted blackwork embroidery, also known as Holbein stitch, Spanish stitch, and other various names. These patterns are worked in a counted pattern, outlining a shape or design and using to contract between your ground fabric and thread color for visual impact. While black was the most popular color for this embroidery style, there are period examples of Red, blue, green, and yellow. Detail from a portrait of Bess of Hardwick by Master John, in Hardwick Hall. Ca 1560
This form of embroidery reached its peak during the 16th century in Europe, but there are earlier and later examples to be found in museum archives. One of the driving forces for these patterns to become so wide spread was the in introduction of the printing press. Full of these designs could be quickly reproduced and purchased for the use of woman in their own homes. Some of these books have survived in private collections and museums. The renewed interest in this art form in recent decades has led to publishing companies again reprinting them. This image is from Ein new Kunstlich Modelbuch (1544) in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City. The designs are sometimes reversable, but not every design is.
Blackwork was used to dress up otherwise plain linen undergarments, and some household linens. The wider and more detailed the pattern the more accomplished the embroider was considered. Henry VIII’s third wife, Jane Seymore, was considered by her contemporaries to be a great needlewoman. While I have not found evidence that she embroidered the cuffs seen in the Hans Holbein portrait of her from after she became queen, the detail shows she had considerable taste and appreciation for the work. Needlework was also considered to be part of a well born lady’s education just like dance, and household management. To achieve the smooth lines seen in blackwork, silk threads are used in the period pieces. Wool fibers typically become too fuzzy after repeated wear. Embroidery cotton threads gained popularity in later centuries. The silk and linen fibers will withstand the vagarious washings period undergarments were given.
Getting Started...
- Needle
- Embroidery Floss
- Even weave linen
- Embroidery Frame or Hoop
- Pattern and transfer supplies (optional but recommended)
Transfer design to fabric. The period practice was called prick and pounce. The pattern was pricked with a series of small holes and a charcoal like powder was rubbed over the holes to make an outline of dots on the pattern. This could then be traced over with ink to make the pattern more lasting. Not everyone would transfer the design. Others might count the threads depending on how good their eyes and the light are. In a modern take, place your pattern and linen on a light board and trace the design using a water-soluble pen.
Framing the design. Most embroiderers in the 16th century used what is called a slate frame. There are many wonderful tutorials on how to dress these frames from other embroiderers online and will direct you there. If you don’t have a slate frame, modern hoops will work just fine to get you started. Be careful of the hoop stretching your stitches as you hoop over finished work to continue your pattern. Frames will help keep you tension even with the fabric while doing counted work.
Start stitching. Below is a Diagram of how I try to trace out the pattern in one direction first and the go back and fill in on the second pass.
Further Reading...
Arnold, Jannet. Patterns of Fashion 4. Macmillan publishing 2000. ISBN-10: 9780333570821
Hogg, Becky. RSN Blackwork: Essential Stitch Guides. Search Press 2001 ISBN-10: 9781844485512
Weir, Alison. The Six Wives of Henry VIII. Grove Press 1991. ISBN-10: 0802136834
www.blackworkacrchives.com
www.elizabethancostume.net
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