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Stays: Its ok to Grow & Change

This post could  also be called, "Its ok to grow & change your mind." 



It's hard to believe that I wrote my first blog about my first effigy corset 8 years ago. There has been a lot of changes, more detailed research, and better access to digital archives of historical clothing. I've loved watching the conversation evolve over time & learning what I can to contribute to the conversation. 

Last fall I had to make myself a new set of stays. My 5th set for me, in addition to everyone I've helped or made them for over the years. My previous sets are all still functional,  but my body shape has changed. Since living in Colorado I've dropped quite a bit of fluff, and my stays became so large on me they were no longer supportive & causing back pain.  



My new stays were made using the same method I had previously except I omitted the diagonal "whalebone" channel. They fit well. As the time I made them, I had a small front gap for negative ease or future weight loss. They are made out of a carnation pink silk which makes me giggle from historical connotations. I reinforced the eyelets down the front by working them around rings using silk button hole thread. These stays are very breathable being interlined with linen and boned with reeds. Even with these changes, these are not perfect  stays. 



A few months after the stays were done I got my copies of Patterns of Fashion 5 by the School of Historical Dress, Corsets: Historical Patterns and Techniques by Jill Salen, and Structuring Fashion from Bayerisches National Museum. Yes my mind has exploded a bit with new research  and it will probably be applied to future projects. I love my carnation colored stays. These remind me of how far I have come and, are just one stop on the journey of making historical stays. In my opinion, it's better to be excited by updated research than to work in absolutes and refuse to change.



Yes the brag book about my new stays is becoming a parable for our current situation in the United States. You might not always get it right the first try, but keep trying with an open heart. Be willing to make honest self evaluations, and commit to doing the research & work to improve. I'm committed to improving myself as a person and in my craft. Thank you to those having patience with me while I do the work in both aspects.  To paraphrase Cathy Hay, each project us going to teach you something new if you let it. I just didn't expect to be reexamining my own bias because of a supportive garment.  





Thank you to Rob Howe for the amazing photos of my carnation underwear.  Here is a LINK for more of his work. 

Patterns of Fashion 5 is available directly from the School of Historical Dress.

Structuring Fashion and Corsets are available online or possibly from your specialty book sellers.

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  1. Marjorie MFJune 22, 2020 at 11:24 AM

    Wonderfully made! Where do you get the reeds? Do you ever need to wash the bodies? I need to make myself a new pair of bodies as well.

    ReplyDelete

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