Beginners Guide to Padstitching

Hello Beautiful Humans!

Today I wanted to cover how to pad stitch an interlining. When I teach sewing and historical tailoring classes in person I always seem to have people astonished by the amount of hand sewing it can take to complete one of my garments. I was that person too when I started. I remember swearing I would never put that much hand sewing into a garment, and then I slowly realized skipping these steps was not giving me the results I wanted. This video is dedicated to me 7 years ago, and anyone else who is looking for the next step to improve their tailored garments. I hope this video is inspiring and helps to demystify some of the basic techniques I use in my videos and garments. If you have another technique you would like me to do a deep dive tutorial on please let me know in the comments. In the modern day, professional tailors go through years of apprenticeship to learn their trade and I don't want anyone to be confused here. I am not a tailor. I have done alterations and working on military uniforms, but I was not trained as a professional tailor. If you would like more information on this and other tailoring techniques from the source I am going to recommend the resources linked below. These are affiliate links to books on Amazon if you would like to support my channel by using the links below.

If you're not an Amazon fan you can also look up the authors independently. Couture Sewing Techniques by Claire B Schaeffer Amazon link Modern Maker Volume 3: Hand Sewing Stitches for Garment Construction by Matthew Gnagy amazon link Until next time, keep reading, keep stitching, and be kind to each other! Bisou Bisou Maridith

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Pockets in the 16th Century?

So if you are new to my blog, Hello! I took July off to focus on work and realities of covid life. Thanks for hanging in there. This week we are doing to cover 16th Soccocia and their role toward the origin of pockets. People need a place to carry and keep their small items as they walk around. In the middle ages you might have a pilgrim satchel or a belt pouch. Some women in the middle ages had the brilliant idea to stop wearing their money purses outside of their over gowns and instead would wear them between their kirtle/sottona layer and over gowns. This arrangement still gave you access to the purse, but made it harder for thieves to cut your purse strings and run. Fast forward to the 16th century and we find the heirs to this practice in socaccia. We have some visual evidence of these in mid to late 16th century art out of Italy. This is a detail of Alessandro Allori's, Woman at her toilet, ca 1575-78. Currently in Florence, Church of Santa Maria Novella, Gaddi Chapel. J

Two Tone Lucet Cording

Hello Beautiful Humans! Today I have a brief tutorial for you on how I made the lucet lacings for my most recent renaissance dress. It is a craft that is hard to document in the 16th century, where I do most of my work, but I love how quickly this technique works up into fairly strong cording. This two tone technique is much stronger than a typical single strand lucet braid because of the extra cord running through the entire cord. I also love the possibilities for coordinating your laces to your outfits. My laces were made much longer than I needed them for this dress. Looking back I could have cut my lacing in half and been fine, but now I have all this extra if I should ever need it. Long laces also mean I can pre-lace myself into this dress with a spiral lace and then tighten it until I feel comfortable. For this particular style of lucet I used a hardwood lucet fork I purchased from an 18th century reenactor, a skein of DMC 6-strand embroidery floss, and a ball of size 10 cr

Voided Velvet Sleeves from a Thrift Store Scarf

Detachable sleeves are one of my favorite things to make for renaissance dresses, and always seem to be the last thing I think to make when I'm planning my outfits. These sleeves are made from thrift store fabric to mimic one possible way that "cut work sleeves" were made in the period. There are several theories, and my research has made me think that they all may have been in use at different points in time for different specific motifs. To make these sleeves I used a voided velvet scarf I found at my local thrift store and remnants of rayon velvet, silk shantung, and linen. Techniques I cover in the video include basting, hemming stitches, and how to easily sew with velvet. I completed the project using a mix of hand sewing and a modern sewing machine. I love wearing these Italian renaissance dresses at reenactment events or when I attend events for the Society of Creative Anachronism. Groups like this have helped me learn more about how period techniques and mate

The Tudor Revolution

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