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Venetian Sonata with Ladder Lacing


 
Photo by Melissa Jones. 2017


 Last Summer as part of the Realm of Venus' Italian Renaissance Costume Challenge 7, I made a Venetian Ensemble inspired by the late 1560's. This dress was an extension of the learning I made in 2012. In 2012, I researched the layers that go into this silhouette and created this look. Personally I am excited to see the growth and better execution that 5 years of honing my craft has given me.
New corset pieces. Stiffened with reed and 2 piece of synthetic whale bone.
This outfit started with a new effigy corset like the ones I have posted about previously on this blog. What is new is the angle of the diagonal channel is wider for my larger bust. I also began experimenting with synthetic whale bone for some of the more important channels, like the afore mentioned diagonal. Over all I am very pleased with my new corset made from a recycled silk dress I found at Goodwill. I usually prefer to just use silk yardage, but it was harder to find affordable silk in Oklahoma City than it was in Phoenix.
The fabric selected was a large period print in pastel green and antique gold. I found this in the fabric district in Addison, Texas. At the time I purchased it I had planned to make a Tudor kirtle with fore sleeves and only purchased 3 yards. If I had purchased another yard and a half I could have easily had fitted sleeves. With the yardage on hand my skirts were edged with a matching silk. The sleeves were in white silk and striped with gold braid.

My bodice was patterned based on my new corset, but drafted differently. My original dress was basically Elenora di Toledo's funeral gown sliced up the center front. This time I looked to the diagonal straps and lower bodice cut I found in Alcega's Spanish tailoring book. The diagonal fit of these shoulder straps snugs wonderfully on the edge on of my shoulder . The Venetians were known for their racier fashions at this time. The bodice has a layer of linen canvas pad stitched to a thin muslin layer. Then the bodice was assembled by hand using period stitches to flat line the bodice.

Once I tried on the finalized bodice I was able to pin the straps at a good place and stitch them into the bodice front where I had left a small slit to tuck my edges in. The finalized shoulder straps showed me it was time to decorate the sleeve heads a bit. I constructed my caps completely out of cabbage from the dress and after a few different options I selected layered tabs with a single spiral. all of these pieces were hemmed and applied by hand. These caps help to hide the tie points of the sleeves.  




Those lovely lacing rings I was so fond of the last go round we sewn into the shoulder strap for tie down sleeves. In the event I am able to make spiral sleeves out of the dress remnants I want to be able to choose the sleeves and change them out. These sleeves are while silk with hand applied gold braid. Applying by hand allowed me to create an illusion on the braid being straight as it curves around my elbow. They were lined in a white linen and have had white silk ribbon ties added to attach them.

In 2012, I theorized that my ladder lacing went through lacing rings and stitched them into the front opening of my gown. The laces were always prone to rolling about. After speaking with some friends and doing a few more experiments  I decided to stitch 2 linen tapes down on each side to lace dress. After wearing the gown several times I can say that this method of lacing keeps the laces straight, and the piece of synthetic whale bone in the interlining is helping to keep the line of the bodice straight as you see in period portraits.  

These skirts are fairly basic and attached to the bodice using very narrow cartridge pleats. I have grown very fond of the fullness my skirts have when the hem is padded with wool felt. I first found out about this technique while reading Janet Arnold's description of Elenora di Toldedo's funeral dress. This time the band fills the gold guard at the bottom of the skirt

By the time I finished this dress I had actually started loosing weight which is why many of these pictures make the dress appear a bit architectural or broad.

Photo by Melissa Jones 2017




Fresco by Giovanni Antonio Fasolo 1570


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