Women’s Hair in in Mid 16th Century Florence
The Honorable Lady Isabelle de Calais
www.tudorrevolution.blogspot.comTo most of Europe in the Renaissance, Italy was seen as a source of learning, culture, and beauty.. While many women across Europe were covering their hair under hoods and coifs, the Italians had a long history of elaborate hair dressing which was embraced with zeal as the continent explored and revived classical learning. This class will outline some of the basic tools, techniques, and accessories used to create Florentine hairstyles from 1540 to 1590.
Tools of the trade
- “Dirty Hair”- Many popular shampoos we used today are mean to achieve modern straight silky hair styles. To make your life easier when creating period looks use products without silicone and parabens. My favorite shampoos to use prior to period hair are from Lush Cosmetics. If you are using shampoos with those ingredients in them please don’t wash your hair for a day or two prior to styling to let your hair regain texture.
- Dyes and Bleach- Coloring your hair is not a new fashion. Many Venetian women would comb hair masks into their locks to create a bleached blonde and even red locks.
- Combs and Brushes- Often made of wood or bone. Double sided combs could be used for detangling hair using larger teeth, and keeping the scalp clean with finer teeth. Brushes were used from time to time and were similar to boar hair brushes today.
- Bodkins and needles- bodkins are just a fancy name for large blunted needles or sticks used to partition and sew the hair. Often made of bronze, bone, or wood.
- Ribbons, tapes and thread- Many of these styles are stabilized as sewn hairstyles using bodkins and one of these mediums to secure the hair.
- False hair- Many women in Renaissance Italy had false hair to create elaborate hairstyles. The Church often condemned this as the sin of vanity
- Accessories- Italian women loved to add a little something extra to their hair. From the socially appropriate veils and hair nets, to delicate flowers, pins, and ornate jewelry, the combinations are endless.
Techniques Demonstrated
- Self padded hair rolls
- Plaiting (braiding)
- Twisted plaits
- Sewing hair (securing your ends)
- Hair taping
Further Reading and Resources
Moda A Fireneze by Roberta Orsi Landini and Bruna Niccoli, 2005. ISBN 88-8304-867-9
The Clothing of the Renaissance World: Cesare Vecellio’s Habiti Antichi et Moderni by Margaret F Rosenthal and An Rosaland Jones, 2008. ISBN 978-0-500-51426-9
Renaissance Secrets, Recipes, and Formulas by Jo Wheeler, 2009 ISBN 97-1-85177-577-4
The Civilization of the Renaissance in Italy by Jacob Burckhardt, Random House, 1954.
My Blog www.tudorrevolution.blogspot.com
Janet Stephens the Hair Archeologist Youtube channel
Lush Cosmetics www.lushusa.com
16th Century Italian Workshops on Facebook
Elenora of Toledo, Duchess of Tuscany. 1539, Bronzino.
Lady in Green, Bronzino cs 1540. San Diego Museum of Art
Follower of Scipione Pulzone from Christie’s Auction House
Bianca Cappello, Gand Dutches of Tuscany, late 16th century Artist unknown
Unknown Woman by Allori ca 1555-1565
Isabella de Medici by Allori
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