Hey there readers,
For a few years I've been in love with the idea of what would Belle from Disney's Beauty and the Beast look like if translated through the eyes of 16th century Italy. My first post in this series is actually going to be a white apron for this outfit, and give you instructions on how to make your own. Enjoy!
Use of Aprons in 16th century Italy
The basic apron style of a rectangle gathered with a waistband has not changed for
hundreds of years, and were popular with Italian women during the 16th century. Italians
seem to have viewed this as much more utilitarian than other places in Europe where
women were sitting in formal portraits with them. Italian women of the upper class only
seem to wear them in private. These aprons have lovely embroidery or expensive lace
worked into them. My goal in making mine was to continue to expand on my 16th century
woman’s toilet, where women wore them to help keep clothing clean while dressing hair
and applying cosmetics.
Working class women would wear aprons as a staple of their wardrobes, but seem to have
favored sturdier embroidery of red or black silk to decorate their aprons rather than lace.
As a design choice I have chosen to use a lace apron for Belle to keep with the white one
she wears in the first scenes of the movie, rather than going strictly by the social class the
rest of this outfit will be inspired by.
hundreds of years, and were popular with Italian women during the 16th century. Italians
seem to have viewed this as much more utilitarian than other places in Europe where
women were sitting in formal portraits with them. Italian women of the upper class only
seem to wear them in private. These aprons have lovely embroidery or expensive lace
worked into them. My goal in making mine was to continue to expand on my 16th century
woman’s toilet, where women wore them to help keep clothing clean while dressing hair
and applying cosmetics.
Working class women would wear aprons as a staple of their wardrobes, but seem to have
favored sturdier embroidery of red or black silk to decorate their aprons rather than lace.
As a design choice I have chosen to use a lace apron for Belle to keep with the white one
she wears in the first scenes of the movie, rather than going strictly by the social class the
rest of this outfit will be inspired by.
Maria Novella, Gaddi chapel.
Materials
2 ply linen hand sewing thread
Beeswax cake
Sewing needle and pins
Scissors
Iron
Bobbin lace
Narrowest edge 1 ½ yds
Middle insertion 4 ½ yds
Wide band 32 inches
Scallop edge 32 inches
Plain woven linen ¾ yds (approximately)
.
Construction
1. I used my scissors to even up my linen pieces. My apron was a stash busting project
made with scrap leftover from making underwear over the last few years. I picked a
lightweight linen to compliment the fine lace I was going to be using. My strips average 6
inches by 28 inches. There were 2 panels I left wider in the middle for added coverage while
applying powder, but all could be the same size as is in the original. I also cut off 2 strips
of linen to become apron strings 2 inches by 48 inches.
1. I used my scissors to even up my linen pieces. My apron was a stash busting project
made with scrap leftover from making underwear over the last few years. I picked a
lightweight linen to compliment the fine lace I was going to be using. My strips average 6
inches by 28 inches. There were 2 panels I left wider in the middle for added coverage while
applying powder, but all could be the same size as is in the original. I also cut off 2 strips
of linen to become apron strings 2 inches by 48 inches.
2. Hem the long sides of each panel and 1 short side. I used a Rolled him for my pieces.
3. Cut middle insertion lace into 4 equal pieces so you don’t run out of lace mid panel.
Cut narrow edge lace in 2 equal pieces.
4.Apply narrow lace along the long edge of one of your linen panels. I used a running stitch
over my rolled hem with the edge of the lace extending past the linen. Do this on another
panel to mirror the first side done. I find it helpful to pin the lace to the linen as I work.
5. Take the middle lace and one of the edged panels. Pin lace over the rolled him on the
opposite side. Tack lace down to seam through the picots (edge points). Follow this process
to attach each panel and middle insertion band ending with the panel that mirrors the first
with edging lace. Hem insertion lace as you work.
6.Take the wide band of lace and scallop edge and carefully whip stitch these together along
the
7. Attach the lace band across the finished bottom edge of the apron using the same
technique as with the insertion lace. The more invisible your stitching the greater the effect.
8. Run, even, gathering stitches across the raw edge of the apron and gather to your
preferred width. I personally liked 14 inches.
9.Create apron strings by attaching the two linen strips together with a back stitch and finger
press seam open. I double folded linen to create a strip ½ inch wide and whip stitched the
bottom edge leaving a 14 inch gap in the middle to act as a binding for the top of the apron.
Ironing the linen strip will make this process easier.
10. Bind off the top of the apron gathers in the opening.I stitched apron to strings with a back
stitch and then a felling stitch to close the binding.
Press and spin around in your new pretty apron!
Inspiration and Final results
"Tabby linen with lacework, h 90cm, w 90cm, belt 87cm. Museo del Tessuto, Prato"
My completed Apron
Bibliography
Crowfoot, Elisabeth and Frances Prichard and Kay Staniland. Textiles and Clothing 1150-1450. 2012. ISBN 978-1-84383-29-3
Landini, Roberta Orsi and Bruna Niccoli. Moda a Firenze 1540-1580. 2005.
ISBN 88-8304-867-9
Wake, Anabelle. Extant Aprons. http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/workbox/extapr.htm.
Accessed 1 April 2020
Accessed 1 April 2020
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