Loose-bodied Kirtle

At chocolate revel last year i saw sever very well made, and worn, loose gowns. It is my understanding that these gowns started as surcotes in Spain. As Spanish influence grew in the 16th century their popularity spread. In England, they started as an informal dress you might wear at home or after court functions were done for the day. They also grew in popularity with those who were older and shying away from fashions which were growing more ridged and complicated. Another demographic this gowns were especially popular with were pregnant women. Some women would lace kirtles looser and adujest placards over their belly, others especially heading into the mid 1540's and later, might wear one of these dresses.

Queen Katharine Parr from the National Portrait Gallery, London, UK.

I have a loose gown that I use at camping events as a glorifieid coat to stay warm. Now I have been inspired to create a new one from scratch and the proper under gowns. I did a little research and decided to borrow my friend's pattern by Margo Anderson to work on my loose-bodied kirtle, aka loose kirtle. I cut out the detachable sleeves and front piece of the gown.

While I was home for a few months last fall I took the time to start embellishing the front piece and sleeves with couched gold thread, pearls, and yellow seed beads. Doesn't this fabric look amazing with the embelishment?

Yesterday I cut out the back and side panels of the gown. I used a simple cotton twill. I know that some people suggested that I use a cheep muslin, but I was concerned about the vast difference in weight between that and the upholstery fabric I have been working with. Then I progressed to spend the afternoon stitching the loose kirtle together. All of my construction sewing is complete, and my seems were finished with flat felled seams. Today I am hemming this by hand and if I have time I will make binding for my neck and arm.
The final step will be to make eyelets by hand. watch for the upcoming tutorial.

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Pockets in the 16th Century?

So if you are new to my blog, Hello! I took July off to focus on work and realities of covid life. Thanks for hanging in there. This week we are doing to cover 16th Soccocia and their role toward the origin of pockets. People need a place to carry and keep their small items as they walk around. In the middle ages you might have a pilgrim satchel or a belt pouch. Some women in the middle ages had the brilliant idea to stop wearing their money purses outside of their over gowns and instead would wear them between their kirtle/sottona layer and over gowns. This arrangement still gave you access to the purse, but made it harder for thieves to cut your purse strings and run. Fast forward to the 16th century and we find the heirs to this practice in socaccia. We have some visual evidence of these in mid to late 16th century art out of Italy. This is a detail of Alessandro Allori's, Woman at her toilet, ca 1575-78. Currently in Florence, Church of Santa Maria Novella, Gaddi Chapel. J

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The Tudor Revolution

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