Reading list for a New Renaissance Costumer

Recently I've been working with people newer to the aesthetic and sewing of the 16th century. I'm an unapologetic bibliophile and find that collecting books & materials for research is as fun as making garments. This list is meant to get you started doing & making things. At a later date I will do another list for more in depth research. As you can see from part if my library, I'm always up for a book chat. All of these are currently available on Amazon and the respective authors' websites. Enjoy <3

Patterns of Fashion 3 and 4 by Janet Arnold

If you are new to doing research on this period let me introduce you to your new patron saint, Janet Arnold. This wonderful woman was able to visit collections of historical garments and took detailed notes & photographs of the garments and their construction. Short of being able to handle the garments yourself these books will get you amazing first hand information. Book 3 will focus on fashionable garments, accessories, and stays. Book 4 will focus on your linen undergarments for the most part.

The Tudor Tailor by Ninya Mikhaila and Jane Malcolm-Davies

This was the first book I ever purchased for my renaissance costume adventures back in early 2008. As a starving college student it did give me everything I needed to start experimenting. The book is based on the authors' research & some experimental archeology. If you can only afford 1 book to get started in renaissance costume this is a good start.
https://www.tudortailor.com

Textiles and Clothing 1150-1450 by Elisabeth Crowfoot, Frances Pritchard, and Kay Staniland

To be fair, yes this book is about cloth I'll ng and textiles from the middle ages more than the renaissance, but knowing your roots is never a bad thing. Many of the textiles were still available during the 16th century, as well as amazing details on sewing techniques. This is part of a series on the material culture of the middle ages from the Museum of London.

The Modern Maker Vol 1&2 by Mathew Gnagy

So I am truly a fan girl of Mr. Gnagy and with good reason. He is trained in tailoring and deals a lot with patterning, fit, and technique from the 16th & 17th century. His books are also really effective at explaining a period pattern drafting system called the Baras system. He is actively still writing & publishing so check out his website for a full list of his publications.
https://themodernmaker.net

Update: I've added links to author websites.

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Pockets in the 16th Century?

So if you are new to my blog, Hello! I took July off to focus on work and realities of covid life. Thanks for hanging in there. This week we are doing to cover 16th Soccocia and their role toward the origin of pockets. People need a place to carry and keep their small items as they walk around. In the middle ages you might have a pilgrim satchel or a belt pouch. Some women in the middle ages had the brilliant idea to stop wearing their money purses outside of their over gowns and instead would wear them between their kirtle/sottona layer and over gowns. This arrangement still gave you access to the purse, but made it harder for thieves to cut your purse strings and run. Fast forward to the 16th century and we find the heirs to this practice in socaccia. We have some visual evidence of these in mid to late 16th century art out of Italy. This is a detail of Alessandro Allori's, Woman at her toilet, ca 1575-78. Currently in Florence, Church of Santa Maria Novella, Gaddi Chapel. J

Two Tone Lucet Cording

Hello Beautiful Humans! Today I have a brief tutorial for you on how I made the lucet lacings for my most recent renaissance dress. It is a craft that is hard to document in the 16th century, where I do most of my work, but I love how quickly this technique works up into fairly strong cording. This two tone technique is much stronger than a typical single strand lucet braid because of the extra cord running through the entire cord. I also love the possibilities for coordinating your laces to your outfits. My laces were made much longer than I needed them for this dress. Looking back I could have cut my lacing in half and been fine, but now I have all this extra if I should ever need it. Long laces also mean I can pre-lace myself into this dress with a spiral lace and then tighten it until I feel comfortable. For this particular style of lucet I used a hardwood lucet fork I purchased from an 18th century reenactor, a skein of DMC 6-strand embroidery floss, and a ball of size 10 cr

Voided Velvet Sleeves from a Thrift Store Scarf

Detachable sleeves are one of my favorite things to make for renaissance dresses, and always seem to be the last thing I think to make when I'm planning my outfits. These sleeves are made from thrift store fabric to mimic one possible way that "cut work sleeves" were made in the period. There are several theories, and my research has made me think that they all may have been in use at different points in time for different specific motifs. To make these sleeves I used a voided velvet scarf I found at my local thrift store and remnants of rayon velvet, silk shantung, and linen. Techniques I cover in the video include basting, hemming stitches, and how to easily sew with velvet. I completed the project using a mix of hand sewing and a modern sewing machine. I love wearing these Italian renaissance dresses at reenactment events or when I attend events for the Society of Creative Anachronism. Groups like this have helped me learn more about how period techniques and mate

The Tudor Revolution

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