Easy Cartridge Pleating Videos

I recently put together some videos to demonstrate my favorite ways to attach my skirts to my bodices on 16th century gowns. Its a version of doing cartridge pleating where you pleat the fabric into the waist and sew. The major benefits of this is that you will always have even pleats without spending time measuring, marking on fabric, and basting. Compared to a mathematical, thread gathered cartridge pleat, these will be softer and more draped. I hope you enjoy the videos!

Over the next few weeks I will also be revamping my poor sleepy blog. For the most up to date project progress feel free to follow me on Instagram. @maridith.smith

Part 1: Setting up your garments for pleating

Part 2: Sewing the pleats

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Making my Viking Apron Dress

This Week's vlog is the follow up to my Viking Age Tunic dress which I posted last week. When discussing the clothing of Birka and other Norse cultures, a woolen dress is an iconic look which is functional while tending a fire or many other activities. My apron dress is inspired by the finds out of Birka. The wool I used was a light weight suiting with a 2:2 twill weave. The long seams of this dress were finished with a machine for speed, and all of the seam finishings were hand sewn. I used a woolen finishing technique I learned about while flipping through Woven into the Earth by Else Ostergard. The technique involves using wool yarn and a couching stich of sorts to encase the raw edges of the wool. The end result is a low profile and durable seam around the neck and hem of my apron dress. I love that all of the hand sewn elements of this dress start to create a decorative finish on the outside of the dress and the only extra embellishment I added was a herringbone stitch over

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